This barrier is intended for environments where the installation may be of a more permanent nature and has the advantage of not requiring a large steel base for support.

The floor mounted barrier system is ideally suited to a more permanent display and has the added benefit of appearing more discreet than the Freestanding version while still indicating that visitors should not touch the exhibits. It’s neutral finish and simple clean lines sit comfortably within the museum and gallery environment, gently reminding the public of its presence without clashing with the display or decor.

The clever bit is a stretchy cord, that fits snugly into the top of each post, drawing a neat line in the air, avoiding the distraction of that dreadful droopy rope, and because the elasticated cord makes a straight line, it blends with the architecture of the building helping the barriers to become less obvious and ensuring the artwork is the object of attention.

The Wood floor mounted version of our barrier system has an upright that fits snugly into an aluminum floor socket and supports the elasticated cord which defines restricted access but gives to the touch thus avoiding tripping or injury. This socket has a small 2" flange at the top that allows it to be screwed to the floor.  The wood floor socket barriers now include special color matched covers that conceal the fasteners and create a more refined install.

If required, the uprights can be removed and the socket filled with a flush fitting plug that leaves a smooth trip free stainless circle.

The Masonry socket version of our barrier system has an upright that fits snugly into a small stainless steel floor socket and supports the elasticated cord which defines restricted access but gives to the touch thus avoiding tripping or injury. The socket is the same diameter as the post, so it is completely concealed and very discrete installation. If required the uprights can be removed and the socket filled with a flush fitting plug that leaves a smooth, trip-free stainless circle.

We recommend a maximum of 10 feet
or 3 meters between these barriers.

**elastic cord not included**

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOOD FLOOR SOCKET

1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is approx. 8 Feet between posts, but this can be increased slightly so long as the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
2. Drill the holes in the floor surface using an appropriate Auger bit to produce a clean hole at least 7/8 dia. and 2 3/4 deep.
3. Place the socket in the hole and mark the screw positions then secure the socket with 4 countersunk #6 screws. Stainless will give the best look but other finishes can be used.
4. Attach the Adaptor to the upright and insert the upright into the socket.
5. Twist the cap to open, insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and push the cap down and twist to lock.
6. Pull the cord tight to the next stanchion with enough tension to make a straight line and push into the slots: straight across if it is a straight line or at right angles if it is at a corner.

A line of stanchions can also end with the cord returning to the wall by using a wall terminator.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR MASONRY SOCKET

1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is approx. 8 Feet between posts, but this can be increased slightly so long as the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
2. Drill the holes in the floor surface using an appropriate Masonry bit to produce a clean hole at least 7/8 dia. and 2 1/2 deep.
3. Test Fit Sockets and shim as needed
4. Apply an appropriate epoxy resin into the bottom and sides of the hole and insert the socket, being sure to ‘bed it down’ by using small backwards and forwards rotational motions to assist the movement of the resin.
5. If required carefully apply additional resin to any gap at the top of the socket to ensure that the finish is flush with the floor and clean off any excess resin that squeezes out.
6. Insert Posts into the sockets and use a level to check that the upright it is absolutely vertical, and if necessary, support in this position while the resin cures.
7. Twist the cap to open, insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and push the cap down and twist to lock
8. Pull the cord tight to the next stanchion with enough tension to make a straight line and push into the slots: straight across if it is a straight line or at right angles if it is at a corner.

A line of stanchions can also end with the cord returning to the wall by using a wall terminator.

http://museumdisplay.com

http://museumbarriers.com

1 x socket

1 x upright with insert

What’s not included: Elasticated Cord, Wall Terminators