The floor mounted Q' Barrier has been designed to provide all of the features of the freestanding version but with the facility for a more permanent installation. The proportions and detailing have been designed to complement museum and gallery environments with clean lines and neutral finishes. There is a range of signage options that will attach easily and securely to the stanchion to assist with informing and directing visitors.

There are two types; The socket mount and the surface mount.

Socket Mount: The stanchion post screws into a floor socket providing a rigid installation to support our discreet elastic cord, that replaces those dreadful droopy ropes. Simple, effective, and suited to more static layouts.

Surface Mount: The stanchion post has a small base plate that is attached to the floor with four fixings (screws or expansion bolts) providing a rigid installation to support our discreet elastic cord that replaces those dreadful droopy ropes. A thin stainless steel cover then hides the fixings providing a clean uncluttered finish. Simple, effective, and suited to more static layouts.

ACCESSORIES FOR THE Q BARRIER

You will of course require elasticated cord to go with your stanchion layout.

A range of signage options are available to work with your Q Barrier.

Our stanchions are supplied complete with an Allen key.

USEFUL TIPS AND GUIDELINES: Socket Mount

We recommend up to 2.5 metres as the ideal spacing between barriers, but this can be adjusted slightly to suit individual layouts.

For the best finish, it is important to ensure that the cord maintains a level straight line between barriers.

The floor socket has recently been completely redesigned. The Q Barrier post now snaps firmly into place with a secure mechanism that ensures it's always pointing in the right direction. Thanks to this new beautifully simple system, altering the layout is very easy, doing away with the need to match each upright to its own floor socket.

With the upright being so easy to remove thanks to this new system, altering the layout is easy. However, when the upright is removed, the exposed hole of the socket is left visible. This can fill up with dirt and grime, potentially affecting the mechanism. We have therefore designed the Q Barrier Floor-Mounted Blanking Plug to slot into the socket, creating a flush finish. This not only makes the socket more visually attractive when the upright is removed, but also protects the mechanism inside the socket.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: Socket Mount

1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is between 2.0 and 2.5mtrs between posts.

2. Drill holes of approx’ 46-50mm dia’ by at least 100mm deep and clear the hole of any dust of

debris.

3. Unscrew and remove the stainless steel bezel at the top of the socket.

4. Apply an epoxy resin to the bottom and sides of the hole.

5. Carefully insert the socket into the hole and ‘bed down’ using a small

rotational motion to assist the movement of the resin until the top of the

socket is level with the floor.

6. To ensure the holes in the top of the post line up, it is important to make

sure the rods in the bottom of each socket are in line with the next socket.

See image above of socket.

7. Allow the epoxy resin to ‘cure’ then screw the stainless steel bezel back

into place and insert the post into the socket by twisting in a clockwise

direction. There will be an audible ‘click’ as the post snaps into place.

8. When you have the desired layout, unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert

the cord. Use a small allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional

purchase is needed.

9. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once

or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down.

10. For intermediate barriers, pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a

straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the

appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of barriers and ninety degrees at a corner.

11. Repeat step 7 for the last barrier.

12. When the layout is complete, tighten all caps to prevent them from being unscrewed.

13. To remove any post, push down firmly and rotate in an anti-clockwise direction.

A) Please note – Thanks to a redesign on the Floor Mounted Q Barrier system, any upright can be

inserted into any socket.

B) Please note – Resin or glue will not be required on the inside of the socket to secure the post. The

new system involves the upright simply twisting to lock into the socket. As long as this process has been

followed correctly, the post will be completely secure.

USEFUL TIPS AND GUIDELINES: Surface Mount

We recommend to 8'-10' as the ideal spacing between stanchions, but this can be adjusted slightly to suit individual layouts.

For the best finish it is important to ensure that the cord maintains a level and straight line between stanchions.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: Surface Mount

1. Mark out the positions of the stanchions. Normal spacing is 8'-10' between posts. It is important to ensure that the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
2. Screw the floor plate firmly to the base of the upright using the countersunk bolt provided.
3. It is essential to mark out the fixing holes for the floor plate with the uprights in place to ensure the cord slots at the top of the post are correctly aligned. If you are planning to use signage, then have this in place to check alignment.
4. Mark and drill the holes for fixings.. four per stanchion.. and screw into place.
5. Once the base plate is secure, and before putting the cord between the stanchions.. place the cover plate over the top of the post and slide down until it covers the base plate fixings.
6. When you have the desired layout, unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert the cord. Use a small Allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional grip is needed.
7. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down.
8. For intermediate stanchions, pull the cord tight to the next stanchion with enough tension to make a straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of stanchions and ninety degrees at a corner.
9. Repeat step 6 for the last stanchion.
10. When the layout is complete, tighten all caps to prevent them from being unscrewed.

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